Entry No. 27 — the Grand Junction file — filed under: railroad history
Alpine Tunnel West Portal
Bored through the Continental Divide in 1881 by the Denver, South Park & Pacific Railroad, the Alpine Tunnel was once the highest railroad tunnel in the world at 11,523 feet. The West Portal complex, perched in open tundra above Pitkin, is a wreck of genuine grandeur: dry-stacked stone retaining walls, the remains of an engine house that once held an indoor turntable, and a lovingly restored 1883 telegraph office whose door stays unlocked — sign the guest registry inside three spare rooms furnished with railroad history. More than 400,000 board feet of California redwood once lined the tunnel bore to keep crumbling granite at bay. The tunnel itself is sealed, but the stonework and the silence at altitude do the work.
The story
In 1881, the Denver, South Park & Pacific Railroad committed to an absurd piece of high-altitude hubris: boring a train tunnel straight through the Continental Divide at 11,523 feet. At the time, it was the highest railroad tunnel on Earth. To keep the mountain's loose granite from collapsing into the tracks, crews hauled up more than 400,000 board feet of California redwood just to line the bore. It was an engineering war against winter and gravity that the railroad was always bound to lose.
The tunnel bore itself is permanently sealed today, but the West Portal complex perched in open tundra above Pitkin remains a magnificent ruin. You can walk along massive dry-stacked stone retaining walls and inspect the footings of an engine house that once sheltered an indoor turntable built to keep locomotives from freezing solid in alpine blizzards. The real reward is the 1883 telegraph office. The Forest Service restored the three-room wooden shack and left the front door unlocked. Step inside out of the tundra wind, browse the railroad artifacts, and add your name to the paper guest registry sitting on the desk.
What it's like
Getting here is half the test. The last ten miles on Forest Road 839 out of Pitkin (via County Road 76 through Ohio City and Quartz) require high-clearance 4WD and roughly two hours of slow wheel-hopping. The route reopened in late 2024 after an eight-year project to rebuild the avalanche-crushed Palisade Wall, but don't expect to drive to the front door—a giant boulder blocks the final turnout, forcing you to park at the Trail #298 junction and hike the last mile in. Expect absolute silence, bite-sized weather changes, thin air at 11,500 feet, and zero cell service. Bring heavy layers, water, and check road status with the Gunnison Ranger District before committing, as snow seals the road shut nine months out of the year.
The move: Drive the rough FR-839 from Pitkin together, earning the approach, then wander the tundra ruins and duck inside the restored telegraph shack. The 360-degree tundra views and utter emptiness at 11,500 feet make it feel like you've found something no one else bothered to look for.
📍 Before you go The road reopened in fall 2024 after an eight-year closure to repair the avalanche-damaged Palisade Wall, but a large boulder still blocks the final parking area — plan on a 1-mile walk from the Trail #298 junction. FR-839 is rough 4WD/high-clearance; the last 10 miles take roughly two hours. Season runs July through September; the road is snowed in the rest of the year. No fee, no permit. Verify current road conditions with GMUG Gunnison Ranger District at 970-641-0471 before going.
- 📍 Pitkin
- 💸 Free
- ⚡ Up for anything
- 🌗 Outdoors
Where: Forest Road 839, approximately 13 miles northeast of Pitkin, CO via County Road 76 through Ohio City and Quartz; West Portal Complex at end of FR-839 (park at junction with Trail #298, ~1 mile hike to portal after boulder closure)
Hours: Added 2026-06-11 — confirm current hours before you go.
⚠ Seasonal or scheduled — always check before you go.
Pair it with
- Tincup Cemetery — Continue your high-elevation tour of frontier mortality by heading over to Tincup, where four segregated knolls hold 19th-century graves at 10,158 feet.
- Waunita Hot Springs Ranch — Wash off the high-tundra dust and soothe 11,500-foot trail fatigue in natural hot springs tucked right under the Continental Divide.
- Gunnison Pioneer Museum — Head down into Gunnison to walk through 42 historic buildings filled with the broader industrial and narrow-gauge rail history of the region.
Good to know
How do I get to the West Portal complex?
Drive to Pitkin via County Road 76 through Ohio City and Quartz, then take Forest Road 839. High-clearance 4WD is essential for the final 10-mile crawl, which takes about two hours.
Can you walk inside the actual railroad tunnel?
No. The tunnel mouth is sealed shut for safety. However, you can freely explore the stone ruins, turntable foundation, and the unlocked 1883 telegraph office.
How long is the hike from where you park?
Plan on a 1-mile walk each way along the roadbed starting from the Trail #298 junction, as a large boulder prevents vehicles from reaching the historic portal parking area.
When is the site accessible?
Only from July through September. Snow keeps Forest Road 839 impassable for the rest of the year. Visiting is free and requires no permits.
Plan a visit & invite your people →
Further reading: Wikipedia · uncovercolorado.com · cpr.org · fs.usda.gov · gunnisontimes.com · kjct8.com
last checked: 2026-06-11