Entry No. 49 — the Albuquerque file — filed under: hot springs
Jemez Hot Springs
Set at the base of red San Diego Canyon cliffs, this mountain retreat features four natural geothermal mineral pools sitting directly along the bank of the cold Jemez River.
The story
Seventeen miles up Highway 4 sits the Valles Caldera, a massive ancient volcanic crater that trapped seawater deep underground eons ago. That subterranean liquid, superheated by geothermal magma and packed with minerals like lithium, calcium, and silica, filters down through rock strata to emerge right along the banks of the cold Jemez River. Long before stagecoaches brought 19th-century travelers up from Albuquerque to 'take the waters,' Ancestral Puebloans and Towa people used these thermal vents for healing. Down by the riverbank on the property, you can still spot the weather-worn timber frame of Moses Abousleman's mid-1800s bathhouse, complete with 'Hot Sulphur Spring Water Baths' barely legible across its header.
The site operated as Giggling Springs for decades before a 2016 overhaul rebranded and modernized the setup into Jemez Hot Springs. Unlike typical geothermal spots that reek of rotten eggs, the mineral water here is 'sweet water'—odorless and clear. Four natural stone soaking pools are fed by a 142°F geothermal source and kept at 100°F to 104°F using a flow-through sanitation system driven by UV light and oxygen inversion rather than standard chemical cleansers.
What it's like
Arrive early or target a quiet weekday morning, because you cannot book a spot in advance. The setup runs strictly on walk-in headcounts capped at 35 soakers, and once full, you are stuck waiting for the next available hour slot. Leave children under 14, pets, alcohol, and body lotions at home—staff reject sunscreens and body oils to keep the unchlorinated flow-through water pristine. You'll check in at a walk-up window where you can order smoothies or coconut water, drop your gear, and step into one of four stone pools set against the red cliffs of San Diego Canyon. The move here is high-desert contrast therapy: bake in the 100°F–104°F mineral pools, walk down to the river edge for a swift cold plunge in the mountain water, and scramble back into the heat.
The move: Soak in the 100°F–104°F mineral pools with poolside beverage service, then step down to the river edge for a swift dip in the mountain water as an intense high-desert cold plunge.
- 📍 Jemez Mountains
- 💸 $$
- ⚡ Low-key
- 🌗 Indoor or outdoor
Where: 040 Abousleman Loop, Jemez Springs, NM 87025
Hours: Added 2026-07-21 — confirm current hours before you go.
Pair it with
- Valles Caldera National Preserve — Pair your soak with a trip to the 89,000-acre volcanic crater 13 miles up Highway 4 that actually feeds the geothermal waters bubbling beneath your feet.
- The Wellness Yurt at Los Poblanos — Follow an outdoor mountain mineral soak with sound bowl therapy inside a canvas yurt set in a historic lavender grove down in the valley.
- The Salt Cave Abq — Swap outdoor geothermal soaking for dry aerosolized Himalayan salt therapy under a fiber-optic starry ceiling back in the Heights.
- Vernon's Speakeasy — Wrap up a day in the Jemez Canyon with prime rib and red-light supper club theater behind an unmarked black door in Los Ranchos.
Good to know
Do I need a reservation before driving out?
No. Jemez Hot Springs operates strictly on a walk-in, first-come, first-served basis, with occupancy capped at 35 people.
Are swimsuits required or is clothing optional?
Swimsuits are mandatory in all four outdoor pools at all times. If you forget yours, swimsuit rentals are available on-site.
Can I bring children or pets?
No. State regulations and facility rules restrict entry to individuals aged 14 and older, and pets are strictly prohibited.
Does the water smell like sulfur?
No. The geothermal mineral water here is odorless 'sweet water' fed by the underground reserves of the nearby Valles Caldera.
What should I bring or leave behind?
Bring a water bottle and a towel (towel and robe rentals are available if needed). Leave body lotions, oils, alcohol, and pets at home.
Plan a visit & invite your people →
Further reading: Official site · visitalbuquerque.org · Reddit
last checked: 2026-07-21