
Entry No. 41 — the Philadelphia file — filed under: cemetery
The Woodlands
A ~54-acre Victorian "rural cemetery" wrapped around a Federal-style mansion (built 1770 on an estate the Hamilton family had held since 1735), holding more than 30,000 burials — including artist Thomas Eakins and several Civil War generals, plus Dr. Thomas W. Evans' 150-foot obelisk, the tallest gravestone in the United States.
The story
Before it became a cemetery, this land was the private country seat of William Hamilton, whose family held the property dating back to 1735. Hamilton built a Federal-style mansion here around 1770 and spent decades filling the grounds with exotic flora. But by 1840, as rural cemetery design swept North America, the 54-acre estate was converted into a park-like burial ground—wrapping thousands of Victorian graves around Hamilton's grand mansion and turning the private estate into a permanent city of the dead.
Walk the gravel paths today and you'll bump into Philadelphia royalty: painter Thomas Eakins, portraitist Rembrandt Peale, and several Civil War generals. But nothing dominates the skyline quite like the 150-foot obelisk marking the grave of Dr. Thomas W. Evans. Evans was a Philadelphia-born dentist who became court dentist to Napoleon III in Paris (and famously helped Empress Eugénie escape France during the 1870 revolution). His monument isn't just ostentatious—it is officially the tallest gravestone in the United States.
Look down at the base of the main house and you'll spot the entrance to a cryptoporticus—a subterranean service passage constructed beneath the mansion so servants could lug coal, supplies, and food without disrupting the views of wealthy guests above. Today, the whole complex functions as an improbable hybrid: a working cemetery, a National Historic Landmark, and West Philadelphia's largest neighborhood backyard.
What it's like
You enter off Woodland Avenue directly into a 54-acre green sanctuary that feels completely detached from the trolley tracks and hospital towers just outside the gates. On any given afternoon, dog walkers, runners, and birdwatchers share the paved loops with 19th-century mausoleums. The atmosphere isn't grim or theatrical—it's a functioning, quiet neighborhood park where centuries-old trees frame high-Victorian headstones. Go in the late afternoon when the shadows long across Dr. Evans' colossal obelisk, or look out for summer dusk events when fireflies take over the tree canopy.
The move: Walk the free, dawn-to-dusk grounds along the Woodlands Heritage Trail, hunting down Dr. Thomas Evans's towering obelisk and the arboretum's oldest trees, then loop back past the mansion.
- 📍 West Philadelphia
- 💸 $$
- ⚡ Up for anything
- 🌗 Indoors
Where: 4000 Woodland Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19104
Hours: Added 2026-07-19 — confirm current hours before you go.
Pair it with
- PhilaMOCA (Philadelphia Mausoleum of Contemporary Art) — Follow up a walk through a Victorian rural cemetery with an indie film or show inside a former 1850s mausoleum and tombstone showroom in Callowhill.
- The Ranstead Room — Pair a quiet afternoon among West Philly's historic headstones with dark, velvet-heavy cocktails behind an unmarked service alley door.
- The 8th House — Extend your tour of Philly's secret history with a trip to this Point Breeze shop for occult books, tarot, and community energy.
Good to know
How much does it cost to get in?
It is completely free to enter and walk the grounds from dawn until dusk.
Where is the tallest gravestone in America?
It's right here inside the cemetery: the 150-foot obelisk erected for Dr. Thomas W. Evans.
Can you go inside the 1770 mansion?
The grounds and Heritage Trail are open daily, but interior access to the Federal mansion and its subterranean cryptoporticus is usually reserved for scheduled tours and special events.
Is the cemetery still active?
Yes. While established in the Victorian era, it remains an active cemetery alongside its role as a historic landmark and public green space.
Plan a visit & invite your people →
Further reading: Official site · Wikipedia · hiddencityphila.org
last checked: 2026-07-19