
Entry No. 23 — the Boulder file — filed under: architecture
NCAR Mesa Laboratory
In 1967, I.M. Pei completed what many architects consider his most quietly radical building: a federally funded atmospheric research lab on a mesa above Boulder that looks like it grew from the earth rather than was placed on it. Three connected towers of bush-hammered pink-aggregate concrete were chosen precisely because the gritty, pockmarked surface and warm hue mirror the surrounding Flatirons sandstone. The inspiration was explicit — Pei studied Anasazi cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde and designed the complex as a village of interconnected towers with crow's-nest lookouts and a maze of corridors meant to force chance encounters between scientists. The building won the 1967 Industrial Research Laboratory of the Year award and the 1997 AIA Colorado 25 Year Award. It sits on 565 preserved acres. Admission is free, and the visitor center's rotating science and art exhibits are open 363 days a year.
The story
When architect I.M. Pei accepted the commission to design the National Center for Atmospheric Research in 1961, he was an urban designer accustomed to city grids, not windswept Colorado mesas. Confronted with the massive vertical wall of the Flatirons, Pei realized standard glass and steel would look flimsy and absurd against raw sandstone. Instead, he traveled south to study ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde, then specified a concrete mix infused with local pink aggregate. Crews used bush-hammering techniques to manually chip away the outer paste, exposing a pockmarked, gritty surface that echoes the surrounding rock. Completed in 1967, the resulting triple-tower complex looks less like a federal research facility placed on Table Mesa and more like an ancient monolith carved directly out of it.
Pei's social experiment continued on the inside. He designed a labyrinth of narrow corridors, spiral staircases, and tucked-away crow's-nest lookouts intentionally built to force introverted atmospheric scientists out of their offices and into chance encounters with meteorologists and hydrologists. While the building won the 1967 Industrial Research Laboratory of the Year award, Hollywood fixated on its uncanny, fortress-like geometry. In 1973, director Woody Allen used the Mesa Lab as the villainous research institute in his sci-fi comedy Sleeper—because if you want a building that looks like a secret futuristic laboratory hiding high above civilization, federal atmospheric science on a Boulder mesa fits the bill.
Despite its supervillain aesthetic, the facility sits on 565 preserved public acres and remains a working federal laboratory funded by the National Science Foundation. The complex earned the AIA Colorado 25 Year Award in 1997 for enduring design, and the front doors stay open to walk-in visitors almost every day of the year without a ticket counter in sight. You can walk past real supercomputing exhibits, atmospheric monitoring tools, and art displays inside one of the most quietly radical architectural experiments in the American West.
What it's like
Drive to the western end of Table Mesa Drive and park for free in the dedicated visitor lot on the northeast side of the complex. The lobby is remarkably quiet and cool, smelling faintly of mountain air and concrete, with interactive climate exhibits set directly beneath bush-hammered concrete pillars. You can explore the building on your own 363 days a year (8am to 5pm on weekdays, 9am to 4pm on weekends and holidays) or drop in for a free one-hour guided tour offered at noon on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. Before leaving, pick up the 0.75-mile Walter Orr Roberts Nature Trail—the country's only interpretive weather trail—and time your walk for golden hour, when the setting sun hits the pink concrete towers and makes the Flatirons glow directly behind them.
The move: Drive up Table Mesa Drive at golden hour when the concrete glows amber and the Flatirons light up behind it. Walk through the free exhibits, then pick up the Walter Orr Roberts Nature Trail — the nation's only interpretive weather trail — for a short loop with sweeping views of Boulder and the plains stretching east.
📍 Before you go Open 363 days a year; weekdays 8am–5pm, weekends and holidays 9am–4pm. Admission and parking are free (dedicated visitor lot on the northeast side of the building). No reservation needed for walk-in visits; guided noon tours run Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays excluding holidays. No direct bus service — arrive by car, bike, or on foot via the 0.75-mile trail from south Boulder. Annual maintenance closures are announced in advance on the UCAR website.
- 📍 Boulder
- 💸 $$
- ⚡ Up for anything
- 🌗 Indoors
Where: 1850 Table Mesa Drive, Boulder, CO 80305
Hours: Added 2026-06-11 — confirm current hours before you go.
Pair it with
- Sommers-Bausch Observatory Friday Open House — Pair daytime atmospheric research on the mesa with nighttime deep-space viewing through 20-inch telescopes at CU Boulder's campus observatory.
- Fiske Planetarium Late-Night Laser Shows — Follow up I.M. Pei's sci-fi brutalist architecture with an evening laser show under Fiske's 65-foot planetarium dome down on University Hill.
- The Sink — Head down from the mesa to this 1923 sunken basement tavern on The Hill for a post-trail burger amidst decades of wall-to-wall graffiti.
Good to know
Do I need a reservation or ticket to visit?
No. Admission and parking in the northeast visitor lot are completely free, and no advance tickets or reservations are required for self-guided visits.
What are the hours for visitors?
The visitor center and science exhibits are open 363 days a year: weekdays from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM, and weekends and holidays from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM.
Are guided tours available?
Yes. Free one-hour guided public tours take place every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 12:00 PM noon, excluding federal holidays.
Can I get to NCAR using public transit?
No direct bus service runs up to the Mesa Lab. You must arrive by car, bike up Table Mesa Drive, or hike up via the 0.75-mile trail from south Boulder.
What movies were filmed at NCAR?
Woody Allen filmed key scenes for his 1973 sci-fi comedy Sleeper at the Mesa Lab, using Pei's concrete towers as a futuristic research compound.
Plan a visit & invite your people →
Further reading: Wikipedia · scied.ucar.edu · yourboulder.com · docomomo-us.org · architecturalrecord.com · boulderweekly.com
last checked: 2026-06-11